During a discussion on the Wood Carvers Digest in March 2002 Kelly Winn posted a very interesting technique variation for acrylic dry brushing that Kelly learned from a caricature carver named Ellis Olsen. 

Kelly's variation starts with a base coat of Danish Oil finish, then thinned acrylics are applied for the coloring with a finishing coat of clear acrylic spray sealer.

As this was a painting style I had not done, acrylics over oil stain, I wanted to give it a try. Of course, not being able to keep my fingers out of the technique, I have made a few minor changes in the original suggestion as posted by Kelly Winn.

Click for
close-up.

Click for
close-up.

Since this is a fun design with a country style pattern I have allowed many of my gouge and chisel marks to remain in the final carving stage for accents.  The work is done on 3/4" basswood and has a 1/2" rough cut hen house frame made of red cedar.

Click here for a close-up 
of the rooster's carving details.

Click here for a close-up
 of the hen's carving details.

Oil Staining the Background

Once the carving is completed and any detailed sanding or riffle work is complete the piece is ready for coloring.

1.  Mix 2 parts of Danish Oil Finish with 1 part of Linseed Oil, stir well.  Apply one coat over the entire face of the carving.  Allow to set for about 15 minutes then wipe lightly with a clean cloth to remove excess oil.  The Linseed Oil thickens the Danish Oil slightly and keeps the oil mix from setting up to quickly.

2.  Repeat this oiling for a second coating.  I will usually flip the piece around for the second coat to insure that any areas that might have been missed the first time are now oiled. After 15 minutes wipe off any excess oil.

3.  Spot stain the carving with an oil stain, I used Minwax Woodfinish Stain, Early American.  Apply one coat just to the designs area, no stain is applied to the surrounding background areas.  Paint the stain to small areas at a time and wipe immediately with a clean cloth.

4.  Allow the carving to dry overnight.

 Dry Brushing Acrylics

Dry brushing is applying coloring in very thin layers only to the high areas of your design.  Colors are applied in gradually lighter shades to create variation in the areas toning.  Note on the hen's head the medium brown tones of the oil stain with accents of medium gray, pale gray, and white to give her the final coloration.

5.  On a clean tile or dinner plate place a small amount of each acrylic color that you will be using.  You will also need clean water and soft flat shader brushes.

6.  Wet a soft flat shader with water, then blot off the excess water on a paper towel.  The brush should barely be damp.  Now pick up a small amount of the darkest shade of color for the area that you are working.  Work the color into the brush so that your bristle show ... you want just a very small amount of paint on the brush.  Drag the brush across the grain of the carving details.  The high areas will receive color but the deep incised areas will not. It takes just a little practice to learn how much color to load into your brush.

7.  Do a base dry brushing of the darkest colors first, painting each area of the carving.  Now repeat the dry brushing using a medium shade of color for each area.  Don't cover up all of your first dark layer.  

8. Repeat the dry brushing again with your palest coloring layer applying less coloring than you did for the medium shade.  You can use as many layers of coloration as you want, generally it is a three layer process.  A hair dryer comes in very handy for small projects to dry each layer quickly before applying the next.

9.  Paint  the eyes and areas between the crate slates with lamp black. Sign the piece with your name and the date on one of the bottom crate slates in black.

10.  Allow to dry well, then apply one coat of Danish Oil Finish to the entire piece.

Click here for a close-up
of the Hen's Coloring Guide.

Note that each area lists the colors used from top to bottom by darkest to lightest.

Click here for a close-up
of the Rooster's Coloring Guide.

Note that each area lists the colors used from top to bottom by darkest to lightest.

This technique offers several nice solutions to coloring basswood carvings but it also creates a possible problem for the carving in the distance future.  

The Positives

1.  The Danish Oil/Linseed mixture makes a wonderful base coating for oil stains on basswood.  The mixture allows for more time and control in staining and therefore a more uniform coloration.

2.  Acrylics are great paints to use for dry brushing as each coat dries totally with no blending into the consecutive coats of coloring that you apply.

3.  The final coating of Danish Oil Finish seals the piece and leaves a soft sheen.

The Negative

Well, anyone who has ever made oil and vinegar dressing knows that oil and water don't mix.  In the case of this technique the pores of the wood are filled with oil finish or stain, then a coating of acrylic water based color is laid over top.  The coloring lies on the oil not in the wood.  So over the years there is a chance that the coloring could flack or peel.  

My Conclusions ... 
The technique the Kelly Winn offered to the Wood Carvers Digest does produce a gorgeous finished effect.  It's easy to create and very adaptable to many of the scenes and themes that we carve.  So I am very willing to take the small chance that this carvings color won't last through the centuries ... A few decades will be great with me.  In fact if there is eventual chipping it may enhance the antique look of our "Fresh Eggs" carving! As a final note I want to thank Kelly Winn for sharing this wonderful idea with the Wood Carver's Digest. 

 Both, Michael and I highly recommend any woodcarver on the net join the Digest.  As members for several years we have thoroughly enjoined the wonderful discussions and ideas that are shared through this list and we extend our sincere "Thank You's" to Bill Judt for making it available.

Highly Recommended!